Events: Tour of the Catskills 2024
Forty-eight hours prior and it looked like the 2024 Tour of the Catskills was in jeopardy. Tropical Storm Debby wiggled its way up the Atlantic seaboard, keeping meteorologists guessing as to where massive amounts of moisture was to be deposited. Anthem Sports event director Dieter Drake eased concern with an email stating contingency plans were being explored. In the end, the ride went off at the same time on the same day, but it was close.
I returned for my sixth attempt at the Tour of the Catskills, an early August event hosted by the town of Tannersville, NY. This was to be the fifth lap around the 74-mile course. Last year sent me along the medium 52-mile course. (There is also a 25-mile course.) When riding the long route, inevitably riders have to face the monstrous climb of Devil’s Kitchen, locally known as the seasonal Platte Clove Road.
There was much jockeying for plans as the late-week tropical depression trundled up the coast, dumping abnormal amounts of rain. Initially the plan was to rent a room Friday night while adding some light Catskills miles. This was nixed after forecasters stated rain would continue into late Friday night. With the brief possibility of the ride being moved to Sunday, participating at all became slightly doubtful. In the end, the skies cleared, the hot temperatures were pushed out, and a refreshing breeze helped those quintessential Catskills clouds swirl in the cloves and above swimming holes. The waterways hissed in chocolate milk froths while storm damage littered the roadway. As a reminder to how recently the storm cleared, every road was still wet when I arrived in the town of Tannersville to sign in.
Having uncharacteristically grabbed a pristine parking spot, things continued to improve as Anthem Sports made check-in quick and easy. The registration booth highlighted the availability of Skratch Labs’ temporary flavor Cucumber and Lime mix as well as pointing registrants to the Stan’s NoTubes tent featuring their new Tubeless Sealant Injector. There would be three rest stops prior to Devil’s Kitchen; there would be a lone volunteer at the top of Platte Clove road to top off bottles for the final five miles. In Catskills character, Skratch for hydration and Stan’s for tire maintenance is the only way to maintain the outing. There are sags and motos, but a 74-mile route is vast. There are no bike shops on the course and few - if any - places to rehydrate. For an area barely ninety minutes north of New York City, there are long quiet roads, which are perfect when your bike and body are working properly.
Debris from tropical depression Debby left roads littered with hazards like this rock pile on the climb out of Prattsville.
High excitement was at the start as Anthem Sports’ director Dieter Drake thanked sponsors. Tannersville’s mayor loves the event, he said. Skratch provided the hydration. Stan’s was present for tubeless needs. Then there were the volunteers to thank. Finally Drake highlighted this year’s t-shirt design reflected the colors of the flag of Colombia. Anthem Sports has rolled out a new cycling vacation package for gravel excursions in Colombia. Deep in the middle of the starting pack, riders sporting Colombia jerseys stood out in their blue, yellow, and red kits. Shortly after 9:00 am, we were given a NY State Trooper escort for the first twenty miles.
There are several aspects of the Tour of the Catskills course I look forward to: Durham Road, the scenery, in some ways Devil’s Kitchen, but the freight train start of the Tour of the Catskills is one of the greatest enjoyments in cycling. In years past, these first twenty miles have been everything from hair raising to off pace. Many times I found myself on the front by accident. This year though, the front group wanted speed. With a buzzing headwind, I remained tucked into the middle of the group. Meanwhile we easily managed an average speed of almost 30 mph (50 kph). We blasted past the first rest stop without a single contemplation to pull over. Our group was committed to arriving in Prattsville as quickly as possible.
Expansive views happen often, especially along the roads toward Durham, NY.
The opening twenty miles have always been a bit of freebee. No sooner did we hit Prattsville than we entered the first climb on the course. A category three climb with a proper switchback shot me out the back of the group. Slowly the pedals were turned with regard for faster riders, storm damage, and future climbs. Roadside gutters showed signs of overflow from the hours prior. River rock collected on the roadside, requiring regular attention. Tall gutter grass stained brown pointed downhill. A couple putting plywood on their A frame house could be overheard discussing whether E-bikes would help them should they attend next year. A fellow rider remarked to me as he passed, “This is where we get shot out the back!” I suppose his “we” meant me.
I could tell I was feeling good on the day because this Tour of the Catskills was different. Unlike other years, I was able to stay in contact with groups for the entire course. In the first four longer rides, I typically got jettisoned in Prattsville and spend the rest of the ride solo. It can be quite restorative to get this experience, but I’ve always wondered why pay to ride alone? This year, I bounced amongst groups. The Latinx groups swirled around me. One rider in particular stayed relatively close, making small talk about the day. I didn’t think I would spend so much time riding with him, otherwise I would have told him I was conserving for the final climb.
I maintained contact with large groups in this year’s Tour of the Catskills.
If there is one spot that should be celebrated, it’s mile 33. This spot marks the start of a five mile descent including technical turns that push a race bike. It also includes sweeping views of the Windham-Blackhead Range Wilderness. The breeze generated by averaging 33 mph while giving away 1,300 feet of elevation is what cycling dreams are made of. But what made this section the greatest experience was another unique Catskills trait. Shortly before the descent, what looked like a black lab crossing the road, quickly changed to the reality it was a black bear cub. Then a second cub. Then a third. Considering I was the first rider to encounter them, I had to consider whether the mamma bear would cross next. Perhaps Spurcycle can add ‘bear bell’ to their marketing, for no more bears crossed while I furiously dinged the bell. I was beside myself for having seen three bear cubs before bombing the descent into Durham.
The second rest stop at mile fifty was a must-pull over situation, especially for water.
There are two more features remaining after the 50-mile aid station: a glorious traverse known as Hearts Content Road and Platte Clove Road (Devil’s Kitchen). In true Catskills fashion, it is hardly a big deal to instruct participants to stay on the same road for seven miles, but that is exactly how our loose group rolled. Mostly downhill, Hearts Content Road can be difficult to enjoy. With such prevalence of speed, a rider could not be blamed for thinking the legs were being leaned on too much prior to the monster climb. Supporters in cars cheering for specific riders began to emerge, egging their family members onward through the 100 kilometer mark. With police assistance off of Hearts Content Road as well as the subsequent Bogart Road intersection, we hit the last proper aid station in Palenville, occupied by an ever positive volunteer. I fired off nutrition, loaded the bottles for the lightest possible liquids, and set myself on a path to Devil’s Kitchen, exactly five miles on the horizon after bouncing along Manonville Road.
Devil’s Kitchen (Platte Clove Road) turned the Garmin screen almost completely green.
I would like to think everyone around me knew what was about to happen. I used to think participants signed up for Tour of the Catskills because they knew about Devil’s Kitchen and wanted to have a go. One year I received a tersely-worded message from someone who signed up and was caught off guard by Platte Clove Road. This gave me pause to consider that at least one rider per year has no idea how intense Devil’s Kitchen is. For me, this would be my sixth attempt. If I made it to the top without walking, it would mark my third successful summit in a row. Three for six was what I kept repeating as I joked with supporters at the turn onto Platte Clove Road.
Four kilometers with 1,260 feet of climbing only to continue climbing to the finish line in Tannersville is what makes Devil’s Kitchen unique.
The numbers for Devil’s Kitchen are absurd. Packed into 2.36 miles (4 kilometers) is 1,260 feet (385 meters). The average gradient is more than ten percent, but sports multiple areas greater than twenty percent. The steepest the Kitchen gets is 25% according to Strava, but that gets lost in the multiple walls that sustain a 20% gradient. I have found success in riding Devil’s Kitchen as slowly as possible. That’s right, I avoid high wattage as best as possible. To climb for twenty-five minutes straight, I can’t suddenly sprint the lesser inclines. This year I contended with vast amounts of walkers. There were more riders on the Kitchen than any other year I’ve participated. There were more fans on the climb. One man dressed as the devil while blasting Van Halen’s “Running with the Devil” told me to smile and that I was having fun. I fired back, “No I’m not.” He responded with “Yes you are!” I was arguing with an overly positive devil on arguably the hardest climb in the northeast.
The gates to Hell: here marks the official start of the Devil’s Kitchen climb.
Throughout the climb, it looked like a successful summit was in jeopardy. I could simply step off and relieve myself of the suffering. Why not? Others had done it. One rider even climbed into his fan club’s car, rode to the top, and jumped back on his bike. But when I connected the thoughts that the Tour of the Catskills almost didn’t happen, I decided to honor my family and myself by chanting positive thoughts uphill. It was a jolt of confidence to have climbed this year without any cramps. I successfully navigated the infamous steep right hander that had gotten me in the first three attempts all those years ago. Satisfied I was in control, I sorted the first left hander and believed I could finish off the final feet. It was here supporters’ cars crowded the road. It was also here I was humbled to see a rider pushing the pedals with his Keene sandals and cutoff shorts. He was shoelacing his way up the hill until he ceased to allow me to pass. One more steep wall was overcome and I relaxed knowing I had officially summited Devil’s Kitchen for the third time.
I could tell I was feeling good in the final miles because I still had strength to pedal. Just because one summits Devil’s Kitchen does not mean there is a descent to follow. As a matter of fact, the course loosely climbs from Devil’s Kitchen until the finish line in Tannersville. I was able to sort the rolling hills simply, perhaps buzzing with adrenaline from a successful summit. Only a few riders were seen now. No matter, I was near the finish, but I was toast. The sun had baked me through. The refreshing breeze had ceased a while ago. The final six miles, though navigated with confidence, were still challenging to complete.
Each year maintenance improves Platte Clove Road with new surface, guardrails, and tree removal.
Unceremoniously I rolled back into the town of Tannersville and through the inflatable start/ finish line. I grabbed a water bottle and was relieved to feel its chill. I asked if the medals were for special finishers, but the volunteer quipped, “No. Take one. Everybody’s a winner here.” I needed that joke to rekindle my spirits. Upon uploading the ride, it was broadcasted to be the fastest Tour of the Catskills ever for me. By one minute. I managed to get to the strategically parked team car and have a seat to collect myself. I was feeling good at the finish line of a ride that was almost jeopardized by a tropical storm.
I would leave town shortly thereafter, but not before a post-ride meal at Last Chance Cafe. My second plan for the weekend was to seek out a hotel room for one night and ride Sunday morning before clearing out. I bagged that idea due to the amount of effort it required and by the numerous homes running on generators along the route. As I left the Catskills and rejoined the highway, back into hurried people land and overdevelopment, I found myself wanting to come back already. I don’t know what it is about the Catskills, and specifically the Tour of the Catskills, but the region captures my road cycling imagination. Forty-eight hours ago the Tour of the Catskills looked perilous. I’m sure forty-eight hours from now I’ll be dreaming of carving descents, glossing over grinding climbs, and recounting three bear cubs trotting across the road. Better yet, forty-eight hours is hardly enough time to enjoy the Catskills. I guess I’ll have to come back.
